Back in the Easterm Province – Cobra snakes, a visit by the President, the King and the opening of Chipata’s first railway line

This last week has been an exciting one in the Eastern Province. With all the events, it seems that the often forgotten about East is on the up.

A visit by the President and 2 Senior Heads of State from Malawi and Mozambique marked the start of the Kulamba traditional ceremony of the Chewa tribe, which I attended with some friends on Saturday in the neighbouring town of Katete.

The ceremony was also attended by various dignitaries including King Kalonga Gawa Undi XI (senior Paramount Chief of the Chewa people of Zambia, Mozambique and Malawi - so basically a very important person). He was dressed in sparkling white robes attended to by men dressed in bright yellow and red robes, who looked as if they had just stepped out of a Buddhist monastery.

The spectacular ceremony was packed full of Traditional Nau dancers who danced vigorously with cobra snakes, performed acrobatics on tight rope wire,walked enigmatically on stilts all with the aim of enticing the watchful crowd with their amazingly coloured costumes and enigmatic movements.

One thing they all had in common was that each dancer had their face covered with a traditional mask, denoting the Chewa tradition that you should not be seen. Despite the warnings of witchcraft, magic and ‘weird goings-on’, I really enjoyed the ceremony despite the fact that the crowds were slightly too much. I hope to return again next year.

After a long speech by the President of Zambia, his tour of the East was over. In his busy schedule he also managed a visit to his home town of Chipata, where he opened the new Railway Line. After 30 years in development, the newly opened line will carry passenger and freight trains all the way from Chipata across the border to Michinji in Malawi. It’s hoped that the line will connect to the main line through Malawi and down to the port of Mozambique, where Zambia is hoping to export many of its home-grown goods, which will greatly benefit the Eastern Province as it struggles to find markets for its farmers.

It’s hoped that the port will rival the port of Durban, South Africa, which is one of the largest Ports in Africa. The opening of the railway line is key to Zambia’s access to the port and as I heard the excitement being detailed on the local radio, I realised how significant this historical event is to Chipata and ultimately to the development of this Southern African nation.